The base follows the product
Hydrating care can take the form of a cream, serum or oil. Each format has different technical requirements. Choose the base around use and skin feel rather than a fashionable ingredient alone.
Cream or lotion
An emulsifying system connects water and oil phases. The difference between a cream and a lotion involves more than oil content: structuring ingredients, viscosity and processing matter too.
Water-based serum or gel
Start with water, humectants and a suitable thickener. Review active solubility, pH, electrolyte compatibility and preservation. Oil cannot simply be added to a water base without a suitable system.
Anhydrous oil or balm
An oil is an emollient blend; a balm adds structuring waxes or other suitable materials. Monitor oxidation, odour changes, low-temperature behaviour and packaging. Having no added water does not remove the need to assess microbiological risk.
Cleansing product
A rinse-off gel needs an appropriate surfactant system, while a cleansing oil or balm has a different base. Rinsing behaviour, after-feel and packaging compatibility all matter.
Compare samples methodically
Create a brief for each format. Record INCI, mass percentages totalling 100%, raw-material batches, processing steps and measurements. Judge results against defined criteria rather than only the appearance of the first sample.
