What we are developing
A plain blend of oils can dissolve oil-soluble make-up and sebum, but it may leave a heavy film. A self-emulsifying cleansing oil includes an oil-compatible surfactant. When water is added, it helps disperse the oil phase into a milky emulsion for easier rinsing. This is a different task from a water-based cleansing gel, and performance depends on the selected system, oils and use method.
The format is anhydrous, but that does not automatically mean “no microbiological risk”. Water can enter the pack from wet hands or a humid environment, so use conditions, packaging and risk assessment must be considered together.
Educational base for 100 g
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride — 45.0%: the main lightweight emollient.
- Coco-Caprylate/Caprate — 25.0%: supports spreadability and a drier feel.
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil — 15.0%: a vegetable oil whose profile depends on the specific grade and supplier.
- Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate (and) Ethyl Olivate — 12.0%: an example self-emulsifying rinse-off system.
- Squalane — 2.5%: a stable emollient used to adjust skin feel.
- Tocopherol — 0.5%: an antioxidant for the oil phase, not a preservative.
Total: 100.0%. This is an editorial educational starting point, not a published tested PIBU LAB formula or a ready-to-sell recipe. The stated INCI blend should be replaced by an actual commercial ingredient only after reviewing its technical documentation.
Laboratory procedure
Use clean, dry equipment. Weigh the oily components, mix until uniform with moderate stirring at room temperature, and add the self-emulsifying component as directed by its supplier. Add tocopherol last. Do not introduce water during production. Fill into packaging that limits water ingress during use.
What to verify
Prepare small versions containing 10%, 12% and 15% of the selected rinse-off component, adjusting Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride to 100%. Compare clarity, odour, viscosity, spreading on dry skin, whitening on contact with water, rinsing speed and residual film. Assess cold and warm storage, temperature cycling, oxidative stability and pump compatibility.
Hallstar publishes a supplier formulation containing 15% Surfinesse™ Cleanse and describes its role in self-emulsifying oils. This is a useful technical reference, but these are supplier data and do not demonstrate the performance of our different base. A commercial product requires risk assessment, a justified microbiological strategy, stability and packaging-compatibility work, and a safety assessment under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.
