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Your first cream & base formulas / 2026

Your first cream: from idea to a base emulsion

Understand the water phase, oil phase and emulsifying system before adding actives.

PIBU LABPublished: Focus: Основи / Fundamentals
A cosmetic cream texture — illustrative photograph.
Illustrative photograph · Jana Kukebal / Pexels

Start with the skin feel

Before listing ingredients, decide whether you want a light day cream, richer night care or a body lotion. Define the intended user, use, texture and packaging. Each formulation decision can then serve a clear purpose.

The structure of a base cream

In an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, oil droplets are dispersed within an aqueous continuous phase. A suitable emulsifying system connects the phases. Structure, viscosity and stability also depend on supporting ingredients and processing.

  • Water phase: purified water and a suitable humectant such as glycerin.
  • Oil phase: emollients selected for absorption, slip and after-feel.
  • Emulsifying system: a specified emulsifier and, where needed, a co-emulsifier or structuring ingredient.
  • Supporting system: appropriate preservation, pH control and selected actives.

Build the base before adding actives

Develop a simple base first and document every trial. Monitor appearance, pH, viscosity and changes over time. Add actives step by step: changing one variable at a time makes its effect easier to understand.

The next stage

The prototype needs stability, microbiological protection and packaging compatibility assessment. Processing temperatures and concentrations follow the documentation of the selected raw materials. This architecture is a development starting point; a commercial formula requires testing and safety assessment.

For your own brand, send PIBU LAB a brief with your preferred texture, format and target market.